10mm STL Miniatures

10mm STL Miniatures for 3D Printing: Mass Battles You Can Actually Afford

There’s a moment every wargamer hits. You’ve written the army list, you’ve read the rulebook twice, and then you price up four hundred figures and quietly close the tab. That’s the problem 10mm solves. At roughly 1:160 you can put an entire division on a standard 6×4 table, and when you print them yourself the cost per model stops being a factor in whether the project happens.

Our 10mm STL files are built for that kind of game. Every model is prepared for home printing on resin machines like the Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon, and they hold up on FDM too if you’re willing to dial in your settings.

Why 10mm works for massed warfare

Scale changes how a game feels, not just how it looks. In 28mm a regiment is eight guys standing suspiciously far apart. At 10mm it’s a block with real depth of ranks, and the manoeuvre rules in your ruleset suddenly start behaving the way the designer intended. Systems built around brigade and divisional play were written with this density in mind, and playing them at a larger scale means permanently pretending your units are bigger than they are.

Then there’s the practical side. Painting 10mm miniatures is fast: block colour, wash, drybrush, done. Nobody is inspecting eyelashes from three feet away, so an army goes from grey plastic to table-ready in a weekend rather than a winter. And the whole force fits in a shoebox, which matters more than anyone admits until they run out of shelf.

What’s in the 10mm collection

Battle of Lodi. Northern Italy, 1796, and one of the fights that made Napoleon’s reputation. French fusiliers and light infantry against Austrian grenadiers, fusiliers, Grenzers, Landwehr and Uhlans, with 6-pounder and 12-pounder artillery on both sides. Napoleon and General Beaulieu are included as command models. If you play 10mm Napoleonic miniatures and you’re tired of refighting Waterloo, this is a proper early-campaign matchup with two armies that actually look different from each other.

Hastings and Stamford Bridge. The year 1066, both halves of it. Viking warriors and Harald Hardrada for Stamford Bridge, Norman raiders and William of Normandy for Hastings, and Saxon militia with King Harold Godwinson caught in between marching the length of England. It’s one of the few 10mm medieval miniatures ranges that covers a whole campaign instead of a generic army box, and the 1066 archers pack fills out the skirmish line properly.

Printing 10mm at home

Small scale is generous in some ways and demanding in others. Resin gives you the crispness that makes a 10mm face read as a face, and you’ll fit a surprising number of models on a single plate. Around 0.03mm layer height is the working setting for tabletop figures, tilted 30 to 45 degrees so the resin drains and you avoid suction cups.

On FDM, a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.08mm layers handles rank-and-file troops well. Go down to a 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm if you want the command models sharper. Slow your perimeters to around 30 to 40mm/s, use tree supports rather than standard ones, and a coat of filler primer will hide most of what’s left.

The advantage nobody mentions: at 10mm a failed plate costs you a few grams of resin. This is the scale where experimenting with orientation and supports stops feeling expensive.

Frequently asked questions

What scale ratio does 10mm correspond to?
10mm works out at roughly 1:160, the same ratio as N gauge model railways in Japan and North America. That means a 10mm infantryman represents a person about 180cm tall, and terrain, buildings and vehicles scale to match. Bear in mind the millimetre figure measures foot to eye level, not the top of the head.

Do these 10mm files come pre-supported?
Check the individual product page, as this varies across the range. Where files are supplied without supports you’ll add them in your slicer. Automatic support generation in ChiTuBox or Lychee handles 10mm figures well, and at this scale light supports are usually enough given how little mass the models carry.

Are 10mm miniatures harder or easier to print than larger scales?
Easier where it counts for your wallet, harder where it counts for detail. A 10mm figure uses very little resin, so a failed plate costs almost nothing and you can afford to experiment. The tradeoff is that fine features have less physical mass holding them together, which makes correct support placement more important rather than less.

Will my 10mm units match the frontages my rules assume?
That’s exactly what the scale is for. In 28mm a regiment is a handful of figures spaced further apart than any real formation ever stood. At 10mm you can field the number of ranks the rules were written around, which makes formation changes and manoeuvre read the way the designer intended.

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